Roketsuzome
The history of Japan's Roketsuzome (wax-resist dyeing)
stretches back to the Nara period, having been introduced from continental Asia (China). At the Shosoin Repository in Nara—a UNESCO World Heritage site—three distinct dyeing techniques known as the "Tenpyo no Sankechi" are preserved: Rōketsu (wax-resist dyeing), Kyōkechi (clamp-resist dyeing), and Kōkechi (tie-dye). These methods later evolved into Roketsuzome, shibori dyeing, and itajime (board-clamped) dyeing, widely loved and practiced throughout Japan.
In our workshop, we use three Roketsuzome methods: hand-drawn Roketsuzome, stencil-based Roketsuzome, and wax-splatter Roketsuzome (Rōfubuki). Hand-drawn Roketsuzome and wax-splatter methods are particularly popular for dyeing kimonos and noren curtains. Stencil-based Roketsuzome, introduced by our workshop’s founder Katsumi, is utilized in creating textiles for noren curtains, interiors, and fashion items in single-width fabrics.
The unique characteristics of Roketsuzome include its intricate crackle patterns, delicate wax-splatter motifs, and graceful, flowing lines, making it a beloved traditional dyeing technique to this day.
Hand-drawn Roketsuzome
Hand-painted Roketsuzome is a dyeing technique where heated wax is applied directly onto fabric using a brush. The wax-coated areas resist the dye, leaving the original color of the fabric exposed in intricate patterns once the wax is removed after dyeing. Craftsmen carefully apply the wax by hand, creating soft curves and detailed designs stroke by stroke. This method is primarily used for custom-ordered noren (traditional shop curtains).
Wax-splatter Roketsuzome (Rōfubuki)
Roububuki is a dyeing technique involving the random splattering of melted wax onto fabric using brushes, bamboo tubes, or specialized tools, creating unique, spontaneous speckled patterns. The resulting designs have an organic, natural appearance characterized by irregular yet visually engaging motifs. At SHOBIEN, we utilize not only brushes but also specialized wax-splatter sprays to produce deeper, richer patterns reminiscent of natural phenomena like snow flurries.
Stencil-based Roketsuzome
Stencil Roketsuzome was introduced by Katsumi, the founder of SHOBIEN, specifically designed for wide-width (single-width) wax-resist dyeing. This sophisticated method integrates traditional stencil dyeing techniques into Roketsuzome, allowing for complex patterns and detailed expressions. It represents an innovative and unique capability in Kyoto, tailored specifically for large-scale textile applications such as wallpapers, fabric yardage, and noren, accommodating dimensions of 80-110cm width and lengths exceeding 25 meters.
