Step 1

Pattern Alignment & Sketching

The design is carefully sketched onto fabric using a specialized "Aobana" pen at actual scale. Even a slight misalignment between the design and fabric can lead to significant distortion in the final dyed pattern. Therefore, the design sketch is meticulously aligned, pinned, and taped to the fabric to prevent any movement. This step, although seemingly simple, demands great care and precision, as even minor misalignments have major impacts on the final product.

Step 2 Wax Application

Following the initial sketch, wax heated between 140°C and 160°C (temperature varies with ambient conditions) is applied precisely onto the fabric using specialized brushes. Wax serves as a resist, preventing dye absorption during the subsequent dyeing step, thus preserving the pattern. Because wax cools rapidly, becoming difficult to apply smoothly, brushes must be continuously dipped in hot wax to maintain optimal temperature. Standard brushes cannot withstand these high temperatures; therefore, specialized Roketsuzome brushes are used.

Step 3 Hand Dyeing

The waxed fabric is submerged in dye solution for approximately 20 minutes. Kyoto's groundwater, drawn from wells, maintains a consistent temperature year-round, providing ideal dyeing conditions. Since wax has a melting point around 60°C, it solidifies upon immersion in the 18°C dye bath. The solidified wax is then cracked manually, allowing dye to seep into these fissures, creating the distinctive Roketsuzome crackle patterns. Each handcrafted dyeing yields a unique pattern, ensuring every piece is one-of-a-kind.

Step 4 Wax Removal

After drying the dyed fabric for about one day, it is submerged in boiling water to remove the wax. The wax floats to the surface, separating naturally from water, allowing it to be collected and reused. This recyclability makes Roketsuzome a sustainable and environmentally friendly dyeing practice.

Step 5 Sewing

In the final step, the dyed fabric is sewn into a noren curtain. Skilled artisans carefully match patterns on both sides of the curtain, stitching precisely by hand or machine to avoid any misalignment.

In our workshop, each stage of noren production is handled entirely by our experienced artisans, ensuring consistent quality and craftsmanship.